Great Little Walks

GLW1108 : Buttermere

Monday 22nd August 2011

Buttermere and Crummock Water have long been an intended destination for us but, logistically, they are a bit of a challenge.  An overnight stay somewhere seemed the obvious solution and the chosen place was Cockermouth.  Partly this was to support the town in the aftermath of its remarkable floods in late 2009 and partly because, logistically, it fitted in reasonably well.

It was mid afternoon as we drew near Cockermouth and we realised that if we did not go directly to Buttermere, there was a distinct risk that we would not get there at all that day and the forecast for the next was not so promising.

Accordingly we parked half-way along Crummock Water and set off for the circumnavigation of Buttermere.  Had I been a bit more careful with my planning, I might have parked nearer to Buttermere village as the distance proved a little more than I expected. Sadly, the weather was not as sunny as had been forecast, at least not until we were three quarters round the lake. However the scenery was spectacular and I am tempted to conclude that Buttermere is the finest of the lakes around which to walk. Others are spectacular but, with the exception of Rydal Water and Grasmere, don't offer the continuity of footpath.

Looking across Crummock Water to Mellbreak

Fleetwith Pike from the end of Buttermere

Looking down Buttermere.....

.... and again with Mellbreak behind

Ditto from further round

Looking back up with Haystacks behind

Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks

Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks in the evening sun

Back to Crummock Water

Here is my favourite picture of the visit:  

Fleetwith Pike with reflection in Buttermere

Tuesday 22nd August

We stayed at the Allerdale Court Hotel in a room that pre-floods had been part of the kitchens but the opportunity had been taken to restructure and refurbish the hotel.  The room was very tasteful and there were some amusing pictures on the corridor walls.

Go on- laugh!

The morning threatened rain so we concentrated on a tour of Cockermouth.  The aftermath of the floods is somewhat strange.  Much of the attractive Georgian town has been rebuilt to a high standard.  However, there remain a number of buildings- mainly pubs and shops- that are disused and in a poor state, detracting from the overall impression.

Our route home was along the back road on the eastern side of Lake Bassenthwaite. We decided to call in at Mirehouse.  Unfortunately the house was closed but the grounds were open.

We wandered around the gardens and particularly enjoyed the poetry section.  We were unmoved by the modern poetry competition entries, none of which rhymed - that shows how old fashioned I am about poetry!  However, there were also quotations from earlier generations.

Margaret was rather taken by this poem about one of her favourite flowers- the Dahlia.

To The Dahlia

Thou are not Dahlia - like the primrose gay
Or dropping Hyacinth, or nodding bell
Which in my happier days I knew so well
No flower art thou of ancient English May -
Thou gorgeous stranger come from far away.
I love the now - not for thy gorgeous hue
But like an aged commuter bold and true -
Thou dost not leave thy pale autumnal day.
There were who thought that every peeping herb
Has correspondence with the distant stars -
Thou Dahlia - thou must be the flower of Mars -
His banner raised, to conquer and to court
Autumnal storms.  Bold Flower, I do love thee
As a tall maid of ancient pedigree.

Hartley Coleridge

I have to say that it is rather different to the only rhyme that I previously knew about a Dahlia and which does not bear repeating here!

Another poem that caught the eye is an extract from Dear Friend by Tennyson, mainly because of the reference to Marge, which is our children's nickname for Margaret.

from: Dear Friend

Dear Friend, whom to have seen and known
Is ever to life's fainting power
The gale before a coming shower,
Whose placid intellect had grown
Like little woods with glooming boughs
Where a fountain overflows,
Cooling his Marge alone

Alfred Tennyson

Before leaving, we followed the trail to the lovely church, then through the woods and eventually emerged at the lake side where the team photo was taken.

It had been a rare event for us to have a short break in the lakes but, based on this experience, one that we ought to repeat.  Again and again and soon!

Don, 23rd August 2011

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