BB2118 : Towards and Fromwards

Wednesday 15th June 2022

Most people will know of Melvyn Bragg as the erudite radio (In Our Time) and television (The South Bank Show) broadcaster.

Many will know that he has been ennobled and taken the title Lord Bragg of Wigton, his home town just outside the Lake District.

Some might know that he has a daughter, Marie-Elsa Roche Bragg (half French, half Cumbrian) who, amongst her other interests, is an Ignation (Jesuit) Spiritual Director.

Others might know her better as the author of a novel entitled “Towards Mellbreak” which describes the lives of several generations of a Lake District farming family.

One reviewer describes it as

A hymn both to the landscape of Cumbria and to a disappearing world.  Poetic, beautiful and tragic, it gives an account of the struggle to preserve traditions and beliefs in the face of change.

I confess I found it bordering on tedious until a sharp change of focus in the last few pages suddenly made sense of the previous 200 pages. Others I know had given up long before the epiphany.

Anyway, not armed with that book, we were today heading Towards Mellbreak.  In fact we were undertaking more-or-less the same walk that Stan and I did in 2010 and for exactly the same reason.  It was one of the few we had left to do to complete this current round of Wainwrights.  Indeed we expected to knock off 5 of them, bringing our outstanding total down to just 14.

Like last time we (Stan & I, on this occasion supported by Martin and Robin) parked at Maggie’s Bridge and set off, through the Loweswater hamlet on the approach to Mellbreak.  

The route up could clearly be seen and looked daunting.  It is hard work.  Very. There seemed to be a lot more loose stone than we remembered, verging on scree.  I thought I remembered being sections where we had to be hands-on scrambling.  Stan took a different line to the rest of us and had that experience.  We followed what seemed to be a well-used route where there was no such problem.  Just the unrelenting steepness and awkwardness of foot placement.

Loweswater seemed a long way down.

It was a relief to reach the top and a superb viewpoint looking over to Grasmoor with Crummock Water and Buttermere in the valley below.

As we dropped down near the only tree specifically named on the OS map, we thought punishment was over but the ascent of Hen Comb proved equally tiring but for a different reason.  The initial climb is very steep alongside a fence that helped with wire netting onto which you can hold.  However the ascent is made additionally tiring by having to fight through bracken.  Fortunately I attracted no ticks- others were not so lucky.

To reach the next hill, Gavel Fell, first you have to cross a huge meadow of hare's tail cottongrass.  

Then you are provided with a different sort of challenge on the steep bits- deep heather.

We added a bonus top- Carling Knott.  Some folk think that Wainwright should have included this rather than the lower Burnbank Fell which we visited subsequently  It may be coincidence but The Western Fells book is volume 7 and rumour has it that by this stage he was under such time pressure from publishers to hit his required number that he was somewhat cavalier about which tops he included.  My theory is that Betty was waiting for him at the bottom so he took the quickest route down to Loweswater.

Walking back to Maggie’s Bridge, we could see the complete round.  

We had clear sight of the route we had taken up Mellbreak.  It still looked distinctly scary!

Nonetheless, the views had been magnificent and we had had a great day, however it was time to drive towards home, fromwards Mellbreak.

Don, Wednesday 15th June 2022

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Comitibus:  Don, Robin, Martin, Stan

Post Script:  Then and Now

As I mentioned in the report, I had the impression that the route up Mellbreak was far more worn than in 2010.  However comparing the two photos from more or less the same viewpoint suggests otherwise.

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STATISTICS

BB2218 : Towards and Fromwards

Date:

Wednesday 15th June 2022

Features:

Mellbreak, Hen Comb, Gavel Fell,
Blake Fell, Carling Knott, Burnbank Fell

Distance in miles (SatMap):

10.1

Height climbed in feet (MM):

3,614

Comitibus:

Don, Martin, Robin, Stan

 

Map  OS 1:50k

 

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