: When Yorkshire Was Welsh
headline I really wanted to use was:
Rent-Boy Deplores Huge Hen
on earth has a "whinging rent-boy" got to do with anything?
I hear you ask.
Or a "huge hen" for that matter?
Well, all will become clear in due course. But
I will give you a clue. It does have something to do
with today's objective: Pen-y-Ghent. And the recent
trip to Ingleborough.
And, if you need further inspiration (which is
likely), the third of the Yorkshire "Three Peaks".
before I say more, I must return to last week's outing,
which produced more feedback than any other walk in
number of people commented on the picture
taken on Lank Rigg, reproduced in an amended
form on the right, and asked how did I get
truth is that the original photo was a disaster.
The sun was temporarily obscured but it
was still quite bright and the subjects
back-lit. I just couldn't get a decent
I put the version taken on "automatic"
into Photoshop, pressed the button for Solarize
and that is the result. I think it works
by searching for where a colour is
not highly saturated and substituting its
it is a somewhat psychedelic effect, reminiscent
of a late 1960s LP cover! BOOTboys:
Lancastrian Steve G mentioned having looked for Wainwright's
buried treasure when he did the same walk. No
wonder he was unable to find it. AW hid a two
shilling piece on Lank Rigg in 1965. However,
it seems that it was found the following year. For
more information see Buried
also told the tale of Matty's Bridge, shown on the map
a bit further down the River Calder. Matty Benn was blind.
Her husband built the
bridge and Matty would sit on the edge of it, often knitting, awaiting his return
from hunting, regularly with John Peel. The Monks built up the side of the
bridge a little for Matty's comfort with the stone left from the monastery. It
was named Matty Benn's Bridge with her name being Martha but always known as
two ladies in our village, both somewhat older than
me, put me to shame by letting me know that they had
been on the same walk a couple of week's earlier on
their third time round the Wainwrights and they now
only have twenty left!
walk hasn't narrowed the gap. John was ready for another
tester for his knee and Tony likewise for his cardio-vascular
system. They wanted to follow up their triumph on Ingleborough
with the second part of the trio: Pen-y-Ghent.
Pete just wanted to test out his new boots.
day started with me picking up Tony. As we were
driving along to John’s house, I could hear a beep every
four seconds or so. I asked Tony what it was but
he was unable to hear it. Eventually he confessed
that he was wearing a heart monitor on his wrist but
was not aware of it making any sound. He was quite
surprised when he put it to his ear to discover the
beep. But then, I can hear a mouse cough at 100
yards, even though I am quite unable to follow a conversation
in a pub! So, for the rest of the journey, I was
able to keep a check on whether Tony was still alive.
met Pete at the Horton-in Ribblesdale car park and after
walking past the strange camp site we tried to examine
the rather squat St Oswald's Church. Sadly, however,
it was locked.
a variation on the direct route used on BB0727,
we went a little further south, via Dub Cote with its
fine sheep, to pick up the Pennine Way at Churn Milk
difference from the previous visit was the absence of
Mr Strideyman although John was making a good attempt
at emulating his pace on the more level stretches.
third difference was that we could see very little-
the clag was down; it was moist, still and surprisingly
new route took us past a succession of increasingly
large “sinks”- essentially holes in the ground that
potentially lead to the cave systems- Milk Churn Hole
being of quite significant size.
final ascent of Pen-y-Ghent is steep- almost to
the point of being exciting although we were unable
to see the exposure today. Tony stopped beeping. Should
we have worried? John, who knows about these things,
explained that the purpose of the monitor's signal was
not to communicate Tony’s continued existence to others
but to warn him when his heart rate was outside the
“training zone” of 60% to 80% of 220 minus his age.
The silence was testament to him exercising well.
the top is a remarkably fine shelter where we had lunch
and John taught Tony the secrets of his monitor. The
beep was switched off.
route down was notable for us being unable to
see the limestone needle that got Wainwright so excited
for more information).
was more of a breeze, the moistness turned to drizzle
and it was much colder.
did, however, find the path to the remarkable Hull Pot.
Just why it is called Hull Pot escapes me but
it would be quite easy to fit the hull of quite a large
ship into this long, steep and deep depression*.
Pot, note scale from figure at far end
weather improved somewhat as we continued back down
the track towards Horton-in-Ribblesdale, offering a
clear(er) view of the hill ravaged by the quarry. We
passed a farmer with his dog, several large sheep and
on the trailer to his quad bike, a might fine ram ready
equipped with his harness.
the sheep for the ram!
reminded me of the late Westmerian farmer and raconteur John Pickthall
and his story of when the new vicar came round for dinner,
dressed in his waistcoat. “Evening, Vicar,” said
John on opening the door. “I see tha’s wearing
thy tupping jacket!”
hint of Ingleborough and Whernside!
clearest view of Pen-y-Ghent
the end, John asked me to let him know when we had just
a half mile to go. When I asked why, he bizarrely compared
himself to Paula Radcliffe and explained that he wanted
to put in a sprint finish. A couple of hundred
yards later he swept past on the blindside and tried
to open up a lead. His turn of speed would not
have disgraced Mr Strideyman, (although probably
not Paula) but he came unstuck when the terrain roughened
and steepened. Even so, he was using every trick
in the book to try and stop me passing him; blocking
me, attempting to trip me with his stick, leaning his
98 kilos on me to push me into the wall. All to
no avail, of course! What silly old men we are!
reaching the Pen-y-Ghent café, John
insisted on us stopping for a drink. The
tiny and rather dour lady behind the counter
was completely flummoxed by the order. One
white coffee in a mug, one black tea in
a cup, one normal tea in a mug and another
tea in a mug for Tony but please could he
put the milk in himself?!
we emerged from the café, the mist
started to lift slightly from the hill and,
for the first time, we could almost see
where we had been!
most we saw of Pen-y-Ghent
back to the erstwhile title:
Rent-Boy Deplores Huge Hen
Just what is its relevance?
confess, not a lot really. I was musing about
the origins of the name Pen-y-Ghent. It doesn't
sound English- it would fit better in Snowdonia- but
I was unable to find anything about it on the internet.
Then, out of curiosity, I put the names of the
Yorkshire Three Peaks (the third, of course, being Whernside)
into my Anagram machine and, out of the 2,533 alternatives
it produced, Whinging Rent-Boy Deplores Huge Hen
leapt out at me as making an intriguing if hugely
irrelevant headline. Of course, you might argue
that "Whinging" should have an "e"
in it but not necessarily, according to the American
Heritage Dictionary of the English Language!
So now you know! If
you guessed it was such an anagram, treat yourself to
a big bonus!
I learned that I was right. Pen-y-Ghent is
Welsh. Or to be more precise, the language spoken by
the Ancient Britons in Yorkshire was a version of Welsh.
"Pen" means hill; "y", the; and
"Ghent" may have meant border although the
sign outside the Pen-y-Ghent café,
If you don't believe me
about the Taffy Tykes, see When
Yorkshire Was Welsh,
which makes a much more apt if less sensational title for
14th October 2009
John subsequently advised that "My Wainwright in the Limestone Dales describes Hull Pot as
100 yards long, 20 yards wide and 60 feet deep. It also says that the reward for
the effort of getting to the summit of Pen-y-Ghent is an extensive panorama---guess we will
have to take his word for that !"
If you want to comment on this report, click on
14th October 2009
(Walks in Limestone Country)
Pot, Milk Churn Hole
you have Memory Map on your computer, you can follow
our route in detail by downloading BB0933.
Steve G advises: "For those who like to look at your
meanderings but use Tracklogs or other software then your logs can be converted
using the freeware utility GPS Babel."
For the latest totals of the mileages, heights and Lakeland Fells
Books Wainwrights see: Wainwrights.
If anyone wants to claim other peaks, please let
me know and I will submit them to the adjudication committee!
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This page describes an adventure of BOOTboys, a loose group of friends of mature
years who enjoy defying the aging process by getting out into the hills as
often as possible!
As most live in South Lakeland, it is no surprise that
our focus is on the Lakeland fells and the Yorkshire Dales.
As for the name, BOOTboys, it does not primarily derive from an
item of footwear, and certainly not from any skin head associations or other
type of social group,
but is in memory of
the erstwhile landlady
the erstwhile Burnmoor Inn at Boot in Eskdale,
who enlivened Saint Patrick's Day
and other odd evenings many years ago!
If you want to contact us, click on
If you want to join
let us know and
of new BOOTboys reports.
: A Gordon Day Out
: Thank You,
Wednesday 14th January
: A Wicked Hike???
: Take a Mug With You
: Down in the Forest
: Not How But Where?
: Binsey Can Wait
(but Uncle Monty Can Not)
Thursday 12th February
: Badgers on the Line
: It's not a W!
: Up on the Roof
: Not the Blisco Dashers
Thursday 2nd April
: John's Comeback
Monday 6th April
: Two Churches, a Pulpit and a Cherry Picker
: Companions of the BOOT
: The Gale Force Choice
: The Comeback Continues
28th May - 2nd June
: Has Anyone Seen Lily?
Feet on the Greenburn Horseshoe
- BB0921 :
The Tebay Fell Race Walk
: For England and St George
: The Coniston Outliers
Friday 31st July
: Little To Be Said In Favour?
: The Third Night of the Rescue
: Long Wet Windy Monty Bothy Fun?
: Dear Mrs Scroggins
Friday 11th September
: An Ard Day's Hike
Thursday 17th September
A Canter of Convalescents?
International Autumnal Expedition
Sunday 27th September
- BB0931 : A Bit of an Adventure
Thursday 1st October
- BB0932 : Paths of Glory?
Thursday 8th October
: When Yorkshire Was Welsh
- BB0934 : Unlocking the Whinlatters
Thursday 22nd October
: A Tale of Crinkley Bottoms
: Aye Up What?
: Where Eagles Wade
: After the Floods
: The Mystery of the Missing Glove
: A Too Short Walk
: One Hundred and Onesfell
: Back to the Beginning
: BOOTskiboys in Saalbach
- 21st March
: Los Chicos
y las Chicas de la Bota
11th - 14th May
: Peaked Too Soon
Click on the photos for an enlargement or related large
download a log of which Wainwrights have
been done by which BOOTboy
in the "modern" era, i.e. since the advent
click on Wainwrights.
anyone wants to claim other peaks, please let me know
and I will submit them to the adjudication committee!